Lisbon in 48 hours

Lisbon is a city of hills, so the first rule is comfy shoes. The second rule is to ride the yellow tram at least once, even if you walk faster.

Day one: up high

Start at a viewpoint early, before the tour groups. Then walk down through Alfama with no plan, and stop for a custard tart whenever the queue is short.

Day two: by the water

Take the train along the river to Belém, eat lunch outside, and let the kids chase pigeons in the gardens. We were home by six, tired and very happy.